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New replacement popout window frames. They use your old glass. It is a good idea to buy seals at the same time and think about how many of the little screws you are missing to... Click here for more information

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	New Crankcase We only carry new dual relief cases. These cases are far superior to the old single relief cases. The oil galley of the dual relief case is twice as big in diameter and there's more webbing in the case. more >>

	Cylinder Heads All of our rebuilt cylinder heads are built from non-cracked or non-welded head cores (rebuilt welded heads will usually crack again next to the weld). Bad guides are replaced and new exhaust valves are installed along with a three angle more >>

	Valve Guides If you're rebuilding your own heads, you will probably need guides. Oversize guides refer to the outer diameter. Note: When installing, heat the head and freeze the guide; they will go in easier. We advise you not to try this more >>

	Cylinder Head Nuts And Washers These nuts and washers hold the heads on. The washers are thick so they won't deform under heat and torque. The torque on 10mm nuts is 28 ft. lb. and the 8mm nuts is 18 ft.lb. One trick is to more >>

	Valve Cover Gaskets This gasket goes between the valve cover and the head. We usually put them on dry. If they leak, use a sealer called Gasgacinch on the valve cover side of the gasket only and just under the bottom of the more >>

	Reground Crankshaft These are used cranks with reground rod and main journals. Each crank is checked for cracks and wallowed out dowel pin holes. We only grind to 10 under, 20 under and 30 under; any further and the bearings are getting more >>

	Distributor Drive This gear matches up with the brass gear that is on the crank. Please read CRANK DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR for more info. We put this gear in before we put the case halves together. To do this, install the gear more >>

	Flywheel Seal This seal goes behind the flywheel. It should be replaced every time the flywheel is taken off. If your seal is leaking, take the flywheel off and pry the seal out. Now remove the shims and call a friend. Have more >>

	Crankshaft Pulley Woodruff Key This key holds the oil deflector in place as well as aligns the front pulley. Note: Put it on before you install the crank into the case, again using a brass drift and making sure it is flat. more >>

	Flywheel These flywheels have been reconditioned and are sold on an exchange basis. If your flywheel has a groove where the clutch rides, it's a good idea to replace it. Read CRANKSHAFT ENDPLAY SHIMS for important instructions on flywheel installation. more >>

	Crankshaft Endplay Shims These shims set the endplay of the crankshaft. It is very important that you get this right. The endplay should be between .003" and .005". Too loose and you will beat out the rear main bearing, too tight and the more >>

	Flywheel Gland Nut It's really a bolt, but that's what everybody calls it. This bolt holds the flywheel on. If you are using an old one make sure the needle bearings in the pilot bearing are still in the end and that it's more >>

	Reconditioned Rods Most people don't realize that these are one of the most important parts in the motor. When a rod is reconditioned the cap is separated, the bolts taken out and the cap mating surfaces ground. The rod is then put more >>

	Camshafts We've had no luck with regrinds, therefore we sell only new camshafts. German cams were the best, but are no longer available. These are the best stock grind cams available at this time. more >>

	Push Rods These rods link the cam to the valves. If you have used rods, make sure that they are straight by rolling them on a flat surface. Inspect the ends and blow air through the tip making sure it comes out more >>

	Cam Followers (Stock Lifters) These ride against the cam. We prefer the Mahle or Scat brand for the upright engines. We personally have had bad luck with regrinds. If you are going to use used ones, clean the head surfaces and put two together more >>

	Push Rod Tubes These tubes go from the case to the heads to house the push rods. They also return the oil from the heads to the case. We highly recommend that you replace these whenever you pull the heads off a 1200 more >>

	Valve Adjusting Screws and Nuts This screw rides against your valve, opening and closing it. These screws do wear out, so check the end that rides on the valve. If you see any pits in the adjusting screw, you will need to replace it. We're more >>

	Intake Valves The two inside valves in the head are the intake valves, which let the gas into the combustion chamber. These don't normally need to be replaced unless they have been ground too far or too many times. On stainless steel more >>

	Exhaust Valves The two outside valves in the head are the exhaust valves, they let the burned fuel out of the head. We recommend that you replace them when you have a valve job done. The old valves can get brittle due more >>

	Valve Springs These springs return the valves back to their seats. You can use your old springs, but make sure that you check them with a spring gauge to see if they still have the same tension. Heavy duty springs are recommended more >>

	Oil Pumps The oil pump is the heart of the engine, so it is very important to choose the right one. When ordering a pump you will need to know if your case is a single or dual relief, if you have more >>

	Oil Pump Sealing Nuts These nuts prevent oil from leaking around the oil pump studs. They should be replaced every time you take the oil pump and/or cover off. Note: The red side of the nut goes towards the cover and washers are not more >>

	Oil Sump Screens This screen fits in the sump around the pick up tube. It's more of a rock catcher than anything else. We recommend an external filter in conjunction with the screen. Used screens are fine as long as they are clean. more >>

	Oil Sump Plate This is the plate on the bottom of the motor. To install one on a 40hp-1600cc motor, proceed in this order: Gasket against the case, the screen, another gasket, and then the plate. Now put the copper washers on the more >>

	Oil Filters Stock This is the only thing that prevents dirt from running through the engine. If dirt enters the case it will destroy the engine. This filter should be changed every time you change the oil. more >>

	Vacuum Plug This is a rubber plug that is used to plug off vacuum. We use the 12mm on stock dog house fan shrouds, to block off where the hose would go to the charcoal canister. It can also be used if more >>

	Dump Tube Boot This boot goes on the end of the dump tube. It has a valve (or slice) in the end allowing oil pressure to vent out but nothing to get in. Many people don't realize the importance of this little rubber more >>

	Oil Coolers and Seals This stock oil cooler cools the hot oil coming from the engine. We recommend the doghouse style over the earlier one because the hot air exits the cooler and goes outside the engine compartment. The earlier cooler allows the hot more >>

	Cooling Fans This is the fan that fits inside of the fan shroud on Bugs 1971-1979 and a 1971 Bus. If you are running a dog house shroud then you need this wide fan no matter what year the car is. If more >>

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WOLFGANG INTERNATIONAL is not, in any way, licensed, sponsored, endorsed or affiliated with Volkswagen and the parts herein offered for sale are not Genuine Volkswagen parts. All prices quoted are in US Dollars and are subject to change without notice.

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